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Photo: Diana Zalucky He describes the whole walk in the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage as a process of rebirth. During our day on the trail, we passed several temples, stopping at each one so Ueno could bless them, using incense to purify both ourselves and the surrounding area. right away. “I prayed for a more peaceful world,” he told me after blessing a particular altar. “And for you too. I wish you a great future and an enjoyable trip in Japan.” After spending the night at Kawayu Onsen and soaking in the natural hot springs, we woke up the next morning to meet the taxi driver. Picking us up from the remote village of Koguchi, he drove us to the trailhead at Jizochaya-ato, the final stretch of the hike that would lead us over the Ogumotorigoe Pass for views of the Pacific Ocean. After a peaceful forest walk, we finally arrived at the Kumano Kumano Nachi Taisha shrine. I was mesmerized when I saw the towering structure, which is both powerful and sophisticated in its design. Nearby, halfway up Mount Nachi, is a 436-foot waterfall called Nachi no Taki, the tallest single-stage waterfall in Japan. Photo: Diana Zalucky

The last dance albert pujols st louis cardinals the machine is home shirt

Photo: Diana Zalucky It would be a lie if I said that I had no interest in the idea of the trip in the first place. As a spoiled traveler, I usually like to book a taxi to pick me up from the airport, and I also love getting a local guide recommend a place. This is my first time visiting Japan and I only know a few words of the language; where most would start with a trip to Tokyo, where phone signal is guaranteed and english speakers make sure nothing can happen completely, we decided to go hiking in a forest secluded completely alone. Photo: Michaela Trimble And yet, there’s something about the challenge of all of this—finding my way somewhere I’ve never been, spending time with people I don’t speak their language— that was invigorating, even if there were a few hilariously lost-in-translation moments along the way. No matter how many times we got it wrong, the Japanese people we met always greeted us with kindness and empathy: from the convenience store employee who closed the register to help me find ear drops, until a hotel manager insisted on leaving her post. to take us to a nearby temple that we were trying to locate. After all, it’s the unrecorded moments that make the journey worthwhile.

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Although we did not have a direct instructor to show us the way, we did have a schedule and personal book prepared by Oku Japan that included all the details of our itinerary. (They even pre-booked our hotel rooms and bought us train tickets; all we really had to do was get from one stop to another.) Self-proclaimed navigator, I controls train tickets and directions, while Diana takes the lead in interpreting via a portable language device. Photo: Diana Zalucky Photo: Diana Zalucky Starting in the city of Tanabe, known as the gateway to the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route, we began our adventure along the trail after our Zazen meditation journey by meets Toshio Tamai, a third generation farmer, on his land. Specializing in the cultivation of unshu mikan, a Japanese mandarin-like citrus, we took Tamai for a walk in the fields to learn more about his process. While he grows three varieties of citrus on his farm, he says, the area is like an orchard, with nearly 80 types of fruit grown nearby. “What I like most about owning my farm is that I have clients like you,” he said. “I love it when visitors like the taste of what I make. I’m glad to see you happy.” After making our own bento boxes with Akizuno Garten’s female chefs—and making two best friends who work at the hotel’s cafe, who gave us the best soft vanilla ice cream we’ve ever had. I tasted it in Japan—we made a mark. Through the forest, beyond giant pine trees and lakes with reflections of autumn leaves, we arrived at a traditional guesthouse in Chikatsuyu, where we slept on tatami floors and Drink a lot of green tea. The next day, we walked along the Kumano Kodo which was what we were most looking forward to: We got to meet Katsumi Ueno, the last monk to practice Shugendo (an ancient Japanese religion centered on worship on the ground) mountains) in his hometown of Hongu. After meeting him at a local coffee shop in Hongu and having coffee before our upcoming journey, a full day hike from Hongu to Sanzai Touge, we began our journey. Wearing a traditional monk’s hat, Ueno blew his silver-dipped conch and conch to symbolize the beginning of our journey. When I asked him why he was called into this path of life, he explained it was a matter of divine will. “My destiny is to become a monk,” he said. “I want to do something for my ancestors.” Photo: Diana Zalucky

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